Gres de Vosges (Lorraine, France)

Served with mushroom pate

They say: "Gres des Vosges hails from Alsace, the land of Munster, where the rich soil is perfect for growing cherry trees. Many of those cherries are used locally to make Kirsch, a crucial ingredient in the production of Gres des Vosges. The cheese is matured in three steps. For the first three weeks, it is bathed in a light brine. Then, for three more weeks, it is washed with diluted Kirsch. Then, for another week, it is brushed with undiluted Kirsch, enhancing its fruity finish. The rind is pinkish-orange from the repeated washings, with a slight granular texture from the salt crystals, and the paste is soft and oozy, with a strong aroma. The cheeses is always decorated with a small fern sprig (it adds nothing to the flavor)."

Cmoore says: Smoothly pungent with a strong aroma and notes of onion. Spreadable paste with a crunch from the rind. Pretty.

Serving suggestions: Sweeter whites pair nicely with stinky cheeses; try a Gewurztraminer for some sweet spice, or a Riesling for notes of honey. Kirsch seems like another no-brainer option. If you want to go beer, maybe a Flemish red ale if you're feeling adventurous, or any other vibrant ale with enough punch to stand up to the assertive cheese.

Haystack Mountain Red Cloud (Niwot, CO)

Served with brown butter apricots

They say: "Washed simply in brine, Red Cloud exhibits the red fruity qualities of a cheese typically washed in spirits. It is unpasteurized goat's milk, scrubbed and washed daily giving it a marbled red/orange color. The high acidity of the goat's milk i san interesting contrast with the usual pungency of a washed rind cheese, as is the bright white hue of the paste inside. Niwot, Colorado is just outside of Boulder, and Haystack Mountain is a pile of rubble near the dairy."

Cmoore says: Surprisingly mild for a washed-rind cheese, my hunch is that this firm little round will soften and intensify as it ripens. The high acid of the goat's milk comes through nicely, finishing with a sharp bite bordering on ammonia-esque, similar to the pine-y-ness of Vacherin Mont D'Or or Chaput Grand Foin. Haystack Mountain does great things with goat's milk -- this washed rind wonder is definitely worth a try.

Serving suggestions: Something sweet and smooth, like a Riesling, Sauterne, or Tripel. Try with pears?

Pata de Cabra (Aragon, Spain)

Served with membrillo mustard

They say: "Pata Cabra means the foot of the goat." [Yep. That's all I got.]

Cmoore says: A washed-rind goat cheese from Spain with a surprisingly mild flavor profile. The firm paste was sweating slightly when I tried it, and my primary impression was a lactic sweetness with a hint of tang on the finish. I think it would be nice with a fruity (perhaps Spanish) beverage.

Suggested Pairings: Rioja, Riesling, Belgian wheat beer, Deus

Brebisrousse D'Argental (Lyon, France)

Served with truffled mushroom pate

They say: "...Despite the brine washing, Brebisrousse is more creamy and lactic than pungent, with a delicate sweetness. It will ooze satisfyingly across the cheese board. 'Brebis' is French for sheep and Rousse refers to the color of the cheese."

Cmoore says: My notes on the tasting sheet read: "Fun Rind! Buttery! Yum! Salty! Yum!" (verbatim). A washed-rind cheese made of sheep's milk is an oddity, particularly featuring the bright orange rind casing the Brebisrousse (they add a bit of coloring). The buttery, salty pungency doesn't quite hit the mark of our "stinky" cheeses, and the smooth, luscious paste earns Brebisrousse a spot under the, well, "luscious" category.

Suggested Pairings: Gewurtztraminer, Dubbel, Tripel, Baltic Porter