Basta!

A friend recently directed me to the New York Times review of La Zucca Magica.

In sum: Inspired Italians in the ever-succulent South of France cooking voluptuous vegetarian food. A first! And decorating their restaurant with puppets made from gourds. Another first.

From the owners: “We said ‘basta!’ to trying to pretend the slices did not come from a nice little pig.”

Basta, indeed. This makes me long for Provencal flavors and Old World markets. And...gourds...

Tomme Crayeuse (Savoie, France)

Served with strawberry pesto

They say: "A relatively new creation, Tomme Crayeuse was created by Max Schmidhauser (one of France's top affineurs) to resemble Tomme de Savoie, but with more personality. It is covered in gray, white, and yellow molds. The yellow mold is cellulose mold -- a type of mold generally found in the Savoie region and nowhere else; the while mold is a small amount of P. Candidum, and the gray mold is a result of the two molds growing together. This is one rind you may not want to taste, but the paste inside is buttery, mushroomy, and unique. 'Crayeuse' is chalky in French, and refers to the texture of the very center of the cheese."

Cmoore says: "Tomme" refers to the format of the cheese, which is a 3.5 lb. wheel. This is a smooth, soft cheese with a sweetly fruity profile grounded by a pungent, earthy rind.

Serving suggestions: Light-bodied reds with a little spice: Pinot Noir, Syrah, Beaujolais. I would even try it with a flavorful rose. On the beer side, something fruity, even as fruity as a fruited lambic.

Gres de Vosges (Lorraine, France)

Served with mushroom pate

They say: "Gres des Vosges hails from Alsace, the land of Munster, where the rich soil is perfect for growing cherry trees. Many of those cherries are used locally to make Kirsch, a crucial ingredient in the production of Gres des Vosges. The cheese is matured in three steps. For the first three weeks, it is bathed in a light brine. Then, for three more weeks, it is washed with diluted Kirsch. Then, for another week, it is brushed with undiluted Kirsch, enhancing its fruity finish. The rind is pinkish-orange from the repeated washings, with a slight granular texture from the salt crystals, and the paste is soft and oozy, with a strong aroma. The cheeses is always decorated with a small fern sprig (it adds nothing to the flavor)."

Cmoore says: Smoothly pungent with a strong aroma and notes of onion. Spreadable paste with a crunch from the rind. Pretty.

Serving suggestions: Sweeter whites pair nicely with stinky cheeses; try a Gewurztraminer for some sweet spice, or a Riesling for notes of honey. Kirsch seems like another no-brainer option. If you want to go beer, maybe a Flemish red ale if you're feeling adventurous, or any other vibrant ale with enough punch to stand up to the assertive cheese.

Valencay (Loire Valley, France)

Served with red beet jam

They say: "Shaped like a pyramid and covered in blue-gray mold, Valencay has a very distinctive appearance. Legend has it that it was originally a complete pyramid, with a point at the top. This was lopped off by an angry Napoleon when he stopped by the castle of Valencay. He had just been defeated by the Egyptians, and the stately pyramids aroused his rage. The mold is caused by a generous coating of salted charcoal ash, an excellent preservative for goat cheeses. Valencay is the first region in France to achieve AOC status for both wine and cheese."


Cmoore says: All the classic qualities of a Loire goat's milk cheese -- lactic, grassy, slightly lemony -- with a creamy, mouth-coating consistency and pleasantly peppery finish. Between the fresh, young scent and subtly biting arugula-reminiscent finish, this is an ideal spring cheese. I bet it would be great with a plate of lightly dressed greens and a very fresh baguette.

Suggested pairings: The Loire is known for their Sauvignon Blanc as well as their goat cheeses, and not coincidentally the two make a lovely union. Other zippy, slightly minerally whites like a Bordeux Blanc or an Austrian Gruner Veltliner would also accentuate this cheese in all the right ways. If you want to go beer try something light but hoppy, like a pilsner, a gentle IPA, or a saison.

Beautfort D'Alpage (Savoie, France)

Served with chocolate fig spread

They say: "There are three varieties of Beaufort: Beautfort d'ete (summer Beaufort), Beaufort d'Alpage (Beaufort made only in chalets in the Alps), and Beaufort d'hiver (winter Beaufort). Beaufort cheese is prepared using 130 gallons of milk for every 99 pounds of cheese desired. The milk used in one variety comes from the Tarentaise of Abondance cows that graze in the Alps. First, the milk is heated and then the cheese is cast into its molds, pressed, and slated. The prepared cheese must then age for 6-12 months, or even longer, in a cool mountain cellar. During this period, the cheese takes on its yellow color and acquires much of its flavor."

Cmoore says: The first whiff of this delight brought a smile to my face -- grassy, fruity notes evolving into a pleasant nuttiness when I sunk my teeth into the slightly granular, pressed paste. Delicious! However, I did think the chocolate fig spread, while decadent, didn't do this cheese justice. It was overpowering, and too bitter for the Beaufort. I would prefer it with honey, and a glass of fruity, slightly spicy red wine.

Suggested Pairings: Pinot Noir, Syrah, [Reds], Stout, Porter

Tomme du Berger (Provence, France)

Served with porcini honeycomb

They say: "Two brothers came up with this mixed-milk cheese recipe: one had a goat dairy in Provence and the other had sheep in Corsica. It is now produced in Sardinia, shipped to Corsica and matured in Provence. "Berger" is French for shepherd. During the fall and winter, the cheesemakers use much more sheep's milk than goat's milk."

Cmoore says: A beefy, pungent tomme with a pleasant saline character and a sharp, funky finish. The porcini honeycomb balances out the moderately biting piquancy with an earthy sweetness. Excellent with riesling or similarly sweet/malty beverages.

Suggested Pairings: Riesling, Belgian wheat beer, Abbaye-style ale

Brebisrousse D'Argental (Lyon, France)

Served with truffled mushroom pate

They say: "...Despite the brine washing, Brebisrousse is more creamy and lactic than pungent, with a delicate sweetness. It will ooze satisfyingly across the cheese board. 'Brebis' is French for sheep and Rousse refers to the color of the cheese."

Cmoore says: My notes on the tasting sheet read: "Fun Rind! Buttery! Yum! Salty! Yum!" (verbatim). A washed-rind cheese made of sheep's milk is an oddity, particularly featuring the bright orange rind casing the Brebisrousse (they add a bit of coloring). The buttery, salty pungency doesn't quite hit the mark of our "stinky" cheeses, and the smooth, luscious paste earns Brebisrousse a spot under the, well, "luscious" category.

Suggested Pairings: Gewurtztraminer, Dubbel, Tripel, Baltic Porter