La Tur (Piedmont, Italy)

Served with porcini honeycomb

They say: "La Tur is about the size of a cupcake and wrapped in a ruffled paper doily, so instantly there is an indication that the cheeses will be a real treat. An usual blend of cow's, goat's AND sheep's milk, not one component dominates the others. The rind is lightly dusted with P. Candidum, giving it a wrinkly, membrane-like texture. It is luscious and creamy next to the rind, and slightly firmer, although still spreadable, toward the center. Aged for less than a month, La Tur has a remarkable depth of personality, ranging from delicately salty cream to earthy and mushroomy, with the animal undertones of sheep and goat."

Cmoore says: Awesome creamline, with a light but luscious whipped texture. Salty paste that promises to ooze as it ripens. Flavor profile is barnyardy and mushroomy, with notes of hay. Who doesn't like salt and cream?

Serving suggestions: Sparkling! Particularly sparkling rose or grower's champagne. I think a Belgian tripel would be nice, too, or the true champagne of beer, Deus.

Beer: BB Dexi

Another Italian craft beer! This time I present The Barley Brewery's "BB Dexi", or, "BB Ten". It's another wacky Italian brew that doesn't quite fit into any of the conventional beer styles. I suppose you could call it a quadrupel if you were really bent on fitting it into a box; however, don't let the faux-label fool you -- like sundry other epicene phenomena this beer doesn't fit any boxes, labels, traditions, or expectations. It's a wood-aged ale from Sardinia made with orange peel and Cannonau grape juice. Cannonau is the red wine varietal of choice in Sardinia, and thus a natural (yet startlingly inventive) choice for a Sardinian melange of wine and beer.

The BB Ten is on the darker side without hitting the deep, rich hues characteristic of stouts or porters. A dark tan head caps the medium-bodied brew as the slew of tiny bubbles reveal a persistent yet moderate carbonation. Hoppy fruitiness dominates the nose, but the palate reveals a complexity of plums, figs, licorice, and sour grapes. The flavor is sweet yet bitter, and although I recognize this is not the first juxtaposition of bitter and sweet the BB Ten certainly provides an original spin.

Although I enjoyed the BB Ten I found it left an unsettling mouthfeel, and I would prefer to imbibe with food. The brewers recommend serving their beer with a chocolate or ricotta dessert, or perhaps a Sardinian cheese. I think hard, mild, fruity cheese would pair well, as well as bittersweet fruity desserts, inappropriate love affairs, and poorly-timed victories. Suggested serving temperature is 57-60 degrees F.

Wine-ing and Dining

Last night I made dinner for the roommates and a friend who broke her elbow (!). I'd been meaning to use up some of our dried goods, so I decided to make a risotto with mushrooms, peas, and fresh thyme. I didn't feel like salad but wanted something green, and concocted a lovely side of steamed kale with sauteed garlic, marinated cannelli beans, and Tomatoes Provencal. I didn't realize when I set out on this endeavor that Tomatoes Provencal are traditionally breaded and baked. I didn't have bread crumbs on hand, but I did have cornmeal and parmesan, which I blended with dried Herbes de Provence and fresh thyme and liberally sprinkled on halved roma tomatoes before popping them in the oven for about 20 minutes at 400 degrees. They turned out well -- I think this dish is a nice way to add a splash of color to a meal without too much work (or too much more food).

My roommate's contribution was a bottle of Meron Primitivo, which was fantastic. Originating in Veglie (south of Puglia), Italy, Meron is 100% Primitivo grapes, vinified in stainless steel tanks. The skins are left 7-8 days in contact with the must, resulting in a full body and hearty but smooth character. Plums and cherries dominate the nose, and the mouth feel is velvety and supple. Not as juicy and tart as Primitivos I've encountered, but really nice with the risotto and kale.

Produced by Azienda Vinicola Durante. Imported by Iatesta Imports, Philadelphia. 14% ABV.

Brescianella Stagionata (Lombardy, Italy)

Served with maple candied pine nuts

They say: "The name refers to the region of Lombardy in which it is made (Brescia) and to the maturation period (stagionata = aged). The cheese may become pungent surprisingly quick: its range goes from "elegantly earthy" to "strong and stinky" in a few short weeks."

Cmoore says: The most impressive aspect of this cheese, for me, was the way the uber-soft, smooth texture contrasted with the crunchy, sweet pine nuts. The nose is earthy, with a relatively simple flavor profile highlighting salty and lactic notes. I'm sure it will ripen into an even softer, runnier consistency and more pungent palate; until then, I'll be content to tag it one of the more 'elegant' cheeses on the list.

Suggested Pairings: Alsatian white, zinfandel, IPA, Abbaye-style ale, Belgian wheat beer

Brunet (Piedmont, Italy)

Served with porcini honeycomb

They say: "Brunet is one of the many fresh Piedmontese cheeses that are so delicate, they have to be transported in cupcake holders. The goat that makes the milk for Brunet is actually a brunette; the label shows her sporting a long, luxurious coat of brown fur and fine stiletto hooves. Even Italian goats know how to dress! Brunet cheese looks like a flattened out, wrinkly Brie. It has a supple coating of mold with a dense, almost flaky paste and a runny, creamy texture towards the rind. It ages for about a month. At this stage, it is tangy, salty, lactic, and acidic yet not overpoweringly goaty."

Cmoore says: Ahhh, the Brunet. At points it vies with Truffle Tremor for the spot of cmoore's favorite cheese. The small, soft disk of fermented goat's milk bears the brilliant white coat characteristic of bloomy rind cheese. Right now it is ripe (read: runny), creamy, salty, and generally delicious. The porcini honeycomb we serve as an accompaniment is, to bring back a moderately antiquated expression, simply to die for: savory, slightly earthy porcini oil drizzled over a runny honeycomb. Divine, and lovely with a crisp sparkling or white wine to cut through the rich paste.

Suggested Pairings: Rose, Cava, Rose Cava, Pinot Gris, Frambozenbier, Lambic