Cherry Grove Farm Toma (Lawrenceville, New Jersey)

Served with apricot mustard

They say: "Cherry Grove is a 400-acre certified organic farm in central New Jersey (Lawrenceville is just north of Trenton). Harvest Toma is made with raw Jersey cow's milk. It is aged for two months, during which time the paste is brushed with olive oil. Their products are available at Reading Terminal Market."

Cmoore says: Luxuriously smooth, with a mild flavor cascading to a nutty, salty finish. Slightly bitter at the rind, but overall highly snackable.

Serving suggestions: Fruity light-bodied reds, like Pinot Noir or Gamay, will complement this cheese without overpowering it. It could tolerate a little bitterness, but no strong tannins or heavy hop; a Belgian IPA like De Raanke might work well.

Haystack Mountain Red Cloud (Niwot, CO)

Served with brown butter apricots

They say: "Washed simply in brine, Red Cloud exhibits the red fruity qualities of a cheese typically washed in spirits. It is unpasteurized goat's milk, scrubbed and washed daily giving it a marbled red/orange color. The high acidity of the goat's milk i san interesting contrast with the usual pungency of a washed rind cheese, as is the bright white hue of the paste inside. Niwot, Colorado is just outside of Boulder, and Haystack Mountain is a pile of rubble near the dairy."

Cmoore says: Surprisingly mild for a washed-rind cheese, my hunch is that this firm little round will soften and intensify as it ripens. The high acid of the goat's milk comes through nicely, finishing with a sharp bite bordering on ammonia-esque, similar to the pine-y-ness of Vacherin Mont D'Or or Chaput Grand Foin. Haystack Mountain does great things with goat's milk -- this washed rind wonder is definitely worth a try.

Serving suggestions: Something sweet and smooth, like a Riesling, Sauterne, or Tripel. Try with pears?

Lactard-Friendly Cheeses

If you check up on this blog, you've probably noticed the recent influx of cheese-related posts. A few of you have questioned the presence of such content on a not-quite-vegan themed blog. However, I'm posting today to defend my current love affair with cheese.

Let's start with the basics. There are two kinds of lactose intolerance:

1) Primary Lactose Intolerance: People who don't have enough lactase enzyme, which helps break down lactose (milk) sugars. Our bodies naturally produce less of this when we aren't breast-feeding infants, not expecting to process the breast milk of other mammals for years to come. Inadequate amounts of lactase result in big chunks of unprocessed sugars trying to make their way through the intestines, which is quite uncomfortable -- hence the bloating, gassiness, pain, etc. For these people, products like Lactaid pills and Lactaid milk, which contain supplements of the lactase enzyme, often eliminate discomfort. Some claim that the big chunks of sugar absorb water and becomes food for bacteria that form gases and acids. Ouch.

2) Secondary Lactose Intolerance: People with unhealthy or imbalanced gut flora (the array of bacteria living in the intestines). Everyone has plenty of *good* bacteria that hang out make sure everything is chugging along as per normal, and work to ward off *bad* bacteria. Strong doses of antibiotics can wipe out the strains of good gut flora and make way for bad bacteria. I myself went through several rounds of antibiotics (for two cases of walking pneumonia and several stubborn ear infections) over a three-year period. This basically wiped out my gut flora, and the less-desirable bacteria hanging out in my intestines now love to feed off the milk sugars that may pass through my system. They get excited and produce, again, gas, bloating, pain, etc. Pills don't help people in this category.

So, what's a lactard to do? Give up all milk products? That means cheese, ice cream, milk, pizza, butter, cottage cheese, yogurt...oh my! I don't want to! And, according to several sources, I don't have to. For example, Bob Fusco of the NIH says:

Most of the lactose is removed from the cheese with the whey during the manufacturing process. As a result, most ripened cheeses contain about 95 percent less lactose (.4 to 1 gram per serving) than whole milk (9-12 grams per serving), and less even than Lactaid milk (3 grams per serving), a brand of fluid milk that has most of the lactose specially removed.

Now, I tend to stay moderately suspicious of the NIH, but ever since I've been broadcasting my lactose intolerance, servers, doctors, friends, and various internet sources have been telling me the same thing. Here are the cheeses that seem to be ok for me:

Aged Cheeses
Most styles of cheese are aged a certain length of time before consumption. Any cheese aged over six months -- including most hard cheeses, cheddars, etc -- will have 0g lactose. No lactose means no problem for the lactose-intolerant! Some experts claim any cheese aged more than 60 days has less than 1g of lactose and therefore ought to be safe for most of the lactose-sensitive population. However, some people still suffer from headaches when eating aged cheeses.

Goat Milk Cheeses
Goat's milk contains slightly less lactose than cow's milk, so some goat's milk products are more digestible. Additionally, goat's milk does not contain casein, the protein found in cow's milk, therefore making goat's milk easier to digest.

Raw Milk Cheeses
Raw milk contains harmless bacteria which produce lactase which, in turn, enables the human body to break down and absorb lactose. Pasteurized milk has had all of these bacteria killed off and is therefore lactase-free, but still contains lactose, causing problems for many people who try to drink it. Raw milk cheeses are said to promote easier digestion and better calcium absorption; contribute to a stronger immune system; aid in combating allergies; are high in conjugated linoleic acid - the most potent cancer fighter; and contain a perfect balance of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids.

I can tolerate yogurt and aged cheeses with no problem. Pizza and ice cream are the most vicious culprits for me, and lately goat's milk cheeses haven't been so great, either. Fresh cheeses like mozzarella and ricotta are pretty much death, and I've just started experimenting with raw milk. Stay tuned!

Tete de Moine (Bern, Switzerland)

a.k.a. Bellelay
Served with Tuscan pepper honey

They say: "Tete de Moine, also known as Bellelay, has been around for a long time. The monastery of Bellelay was established in 1136 and confirmed by Pope Innozenz II six years later. As early as 1192, or one century before the beginnings of the Swiss Confederation, the monks of the monastery Bellelay were first mentioned in connection with cheese. At that time they paid the annual rent on various properties with cheese made in their abbey. Time and again documents from subsequent centuries mention the use of the valuable cheese as a means of payment. The oldest description of the Bellelay cheese dates from 1628 and states that a 'very fatty milk of impeccable quality from the best grasses and berbs of the country is used'. Tete de Moine means the 'head of the monk' and resembles a balding monk's receding hairline."

Cmoore says: Please note that the name "Monk's Head" has double meaning: both the physical resemblance and the barter for paying taxes. This has been on our menu for nearly the entire duration of my employment at Tria, and it remains my number one recommendation to all my tables. Everyone loves it! To serve, we use a girolle (pictured) to shave off florets of cheese -- people compare it to carnations, coral, ginger in a sushi restaurant. One table even looked at me confusedly when I proudly presented the cheese board and queried, "Where's the cheese?" The presentation is fun, and the sharp, strong flavor is balanced by the delicate texture. Definitely a favorite, and highly recommended.

Suggested Pairings: Gewurtztraminer, Zweigelt, medium-bodied and spicy reds, stout, Tripel, Duvel

Beautfort D'Alpage (Savoie, France)

Served with chocolate fig spread

They say: "There are three varieties of Beaufort: Beautfort d'ete (summer Beaufort), Beaufort d'Alpage (Beaufort made only in chalets in the Alps), and Beaufort d'hiver (winter Beaufort). Beaufort cheese is prepared using 130 gallons of milk for every 99 pounds of cheese desired. The milk used in one variety comes from the Tarentaise of Abondance cows that graze in the Alps. First, the milk is heated and then the cheese is cast into its molds, pressed, and slated. The prepared cheese must then age for 6-12 months, or even longer, in a cool mountain cellar. During this period, the cheese takes on its yellow color and acquires much of its flavor."

Cmoore says: The first whiff of this delight brought a smile to my face -- grassy, fruity notes evolving into a pleasant nuttiness when I sunk my teeth into the slightly granular, pressed paste. Delicious! However, I did think the chocolate fig spread, while decadent, didn't do this cheese justice. It was overpowering, and too bitter for the Beaufort. I would prefer it with honey, and a glass of fruity, slightly spicy red wine.

Suggested Pairings: Pinot Noir, Syrah, [Reds], Stout, Porter

Lord of the Hundreds (Sussex, England)

Served with cajeta pear puree

They say: "The Lord of the Hundreds was the Saxon magistrate that collected tithes from all the peasants in Sussex."

Cmoore says: Say it with me, Lord of the Hundreds! Unfortunately the cheese didn't really live up to it's epic name: it was dry, hard, and rather bland. One of my co-tasters suggested it might have been stored improperly, as it tasted vaguely of "refrigerator". The cajeta pear puree (a mixture of goat's milk caramel and pureed poached pears) was similarly boring uninspiring. As an uncooked pressed sheep's cheese, this would be comparable to such gems as Pyrenees Brebis, but Lord of the Hundreds really can't compare.

Suggested Pairings: Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Americain Dubbel, ESB, Nut Brown Ale

5 Spoke Creamery "Tumbleweed" (Westchester, NY)

Served with with apricot mustard

They say: "Tumbleweed is produced like a cheddar but with the thin bloomy rind of a Cantal Fermier. They age it for 8-9 months. The owner of 5 Spoke Creamery, Alan Glustoff, sought out an Amish cheesemaker to make his cheese. In order to uphold his personal beliefs, he also brought in a rabbi. Tumbleweed is certified kosher."

Cmoore says: A bloomy rind cheddar is a rarity indeed. And it's kosher! Tumbleweed is made from raw milk from grass-fed cows, resulting in a complex flavor and a plethora of nutritive benefits. This cheese is very cheddar-y, but with a profile that is more delicate, fruity, and creamy than sharp, nutty, and firm. Cheddars are traditionally served with mustard, and our blend of dijon mustard and apricot preserves make a very nice accompaniment. I think this is a great beer cheese, and would love to enjoy it with a brown ale or any other robust English ale.

Suggested Pairings: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, English Brown Ale, IPA, Pilsner, Yards ESB, Pale Ale

Tomme du Berger (Provence, France)

Served with porcini honeycomb

They say: "Two brothers came up with this mixed-milk cheese recipe: one had a goat dairy in Provence and the other had sheep in Corsica. It is now produced in Sardinia, shipped to Corsica and matured in Provence. "Berger" is French for shepherd. During the fall and winter, the cheesemakers use much more sheep's milk than goat's milk."

Cmoore says: A beefy, pungent tomme with a pleasant saline character and a sharp, funky finish. The porcini honeycomb balances out the moderately biting piquancy with an earthy sweetness. Excellent with riesling or similarly sweet/malty beverages.

Suggested Pairings: Riesling, Belgian wheat beer, Abbaye-style ale

Jasper Hill "Constant Bliss" (Greensboro, VT)

Served with chamomile cranberries

They say: "The cheesemakers at Jasper Hill, brothers Andy and Mateo Kehler, showcase the sweet richness of their raw cow's milk in Constant Bliss. They make this cheese year-round. Each season, the cheese changes; the milk develops different flavors and textures from the varied yeasts and herbs in the grasses that the cows eat. Constant Bliss was a revolutionary war scout killed by a Native American in Greensboro, Vermont in 1781. He died with his friend Moses Sleeper, the name of Jasper Hill's newest and still developing bloomy-rinded cheese."

Cmoore says: My first thought tasting this cheese: grass. We've featured Constant Bliss before, but I don't remember all the grass and hay on the nose, evolving into vaguely barnyardy notes. Sweet and complex, this bloomy-rinded raw cow's milk cheese is complimented by the sweet complexity of cranberries poached in chamomile tea and our delectable local honey. The texture of the cheese is smooth and supple, though relatively dense compared to other cheeses we've placed in the "luscious" category. Again, a crisp and/or sparkling beverage will cut through the rich, sweet nature of this classic.

Suggested Pairings: Champagne, Sparking Rose, Pilsner, Farmhouse Ale

St Maure de Touraine (Tours, France)

Served with red beet jam

They say: "St Maure de Touraine looks like a cheese on a stick. It is skewered with a piece of straw that ventilates it while aging. The stick should not be cut; instead piece of the cheese are pulled off the stick like a kebab. 241 farm producers make St. Maure, and traditionally the name of the farm was printed on the straw to identify the producer."

Cmoore says: Fresh, slightly chalky texture with a slight creamline under the rind. The interior is lactic and goaty, with a peppery accent from the ashy rind. The beet jam (a puree of roasted beets and dijon mustard) adds a lovely tanginess that complements and enhances the cheese. Nice with crisp or bubbly beverages to cut through the fluffy paste.

Suggested pairings: Vouvray, Champagne, Loire valley white (e.g. Sauvignon Blanc), Flemish ale, Kriek, Hefeweizen