Tomme Crayeuse (Savoie, France)

Served with strawberry pesto

They say: "A relatively new creation, Tomme Crayeuse was created by Max Schmidhauser (one of France's top affineurs) to resemble Tomme de Savoie, but with more personality. It is covered in gray, white, and yellow molds. The yellow mold is cellulose mold -- a type of mold generally found in the Savoie region and nowhere else; the while mold is a small amount of P. Candidum, and the gray mold is a result of the two molds growing together. This is one rind you may not want to taste, but the paste inside is buttery, mushroomy, and unique. 'Crayeuse' is chalky in French, and refers to the texture of the very center of the cheese."

Cmoore says: "Tomme" refers to the format of the cheese, which is a 3.5 lb. wheel. This is a smooth, soft cheese with a sweetly fruity profile grounded by a pungent, earthy rind.

Serving suggestions: Light-bodied reds with a little spice: Pinot Noir, Syrah, Beaujolais. I would even try it with a flavorful rose. On the beer side, something fruity, even as fruity as a fruited lambic.

Gres de Vosges (Lorraine, France)

Served with mushroom pate

They say: "Gres des Vosges hails from Alsace, the land of Munster, where the rich soil is perfect for growing cherry trees. Many of those cherries are used locally to make Kirsch, a crucial ingredient in the production of Gres des Vosges. The cheese is matured in three steps. For the first three weeks, it is bathed in a light brine. Then, for three more weeks, it is washed with diluted Kirsch. Then, for another week, it is brushed with undiluted Kirsch, enhancing its fruity finish. The rind is pinkish-orange from the repeated washings, with a slight granular texture from the salt crystals, and the paste is soft and oozy, with a strong aroma. The cheeses is always decorated with a small fern sprig (it adds nothing to the flavor)."

Cmoore says: Smoothly pungent with a strong aroma and notes of onion. Spreadable paste with a crunch from the rind. Pretty.

Serving suggestions: Sweeter whites pair nicely with stinky cheeses; try a Gewurztraminer for some sweet spice, or a Riesling for notes of honey. Kirsch seems like another no-brainer option. If you want to go beer, maybe a Flemish red ale if you're feeling adventurous, or any other vibrant ale with enough punch to stand up to the assertive cheese.

La Tur (Piedmont, Italy)

Served with porcini honeycomb

They say: "La Tur is about the size of a cupcake and wrapped in a ruffled paper doily, so instantly there is an indication that the cheeses will be a real treat. An usual blend of cow's, goat's AND sheep's milk, not one component dominates the others. The rind is lightly dusted with P. Candidum, giving it a wrinkly, membrane-like texture. It is luscious and creamy next to the rind, and slightly firmer, although still spreadable, toward the center. Aged for less than a month, La Tur has a remarkable depth of personality, ranging from delicately salty cream to earthy and mushroomy, with the animal undertones of sheep and goat."

Cmoore says: Awesome creamline, with a light but luscious whipped texture. Salty paste that promises to ooze as it ripens. Flavor profile is barnyardy and mushroomy, with notes of hay. Who doesn't like salt and cream?

Serving suggestions: Sparkling! Particularly sparkling rose or grower's champagne. I think a Belgian tripel would be nice, too, or the true champagne of beer, Deus.

Westfield Blue Log (Hubbardston, MA)

Served with Tuscan pepper honey

They say: "Aged for about 3 weeks. This is a goat cheese with the legendary blue mold, Penicillium Roqueforti. Unlike many artisinal cheeses, this aged goat cheese encrusted by blue mold is a unique, American creation. The Stetsons of Westfield Farm begin with their traditional, high quality chevre, but then cover the outside with the famed mold. After 20 days in a warm curing room with high humidity, the exterior forms a grayish-blue crust. The fluffy interior remains bright white and goaty to the core. It ripens from the outside in, but no blue veins enter the paste. (Note: blue veins are possible only when the cheese maker pierces the paste with copper needles, allowing oxygen and Penicillium Roqueforti to creep in.) The exterior mold gives the cheese a gentle piquancy near the rind, but it is tempered with the lemony tang of a fresh goat cheese."

Cmoore says: "Blue Log" doesn't exactly evoke the paragon of deliciousness, so I usually opt for "Classic Blue Log", which somehow ups the ante. The blue mold is thick, more like a a soft shell than a thin skin. It provides a smooth coating that packs a spicy punch, nicely contrasting the salty, light, creamy-yet-fluffy interior. This might not be the best choice for a crowd-pleaser, but definitely a fun cheese.

Serving suggestions: Blue mold is from Mars, and goats are from Venus, so how do you find a beverage that suits both? Look for something with sweetness to complement the blue, and acidity to temper the goat: perhaps a Chenin Blanc or Viognier, or on the barley-based end, a Belgian tripel would do nicely.

Valencay (Loire Valley, France)

Served with red beet jam

They say: "Shaped like a pyramid and covered in blue-gray mold, Valencay has a very distinctive appearance. Legend has it that it was originally a complete pyramid, with a point at the top. This was lopped off by an angry Napoleon when he stopped by the castle of Valencay. He had just been defeated by the Egyptians, and the stately pyramids aroused his rage. The mold is caused by a generous coating of salted charcoal ash, an excellent preservative for goat cheeses. Valencay is the first region in France to achieve AOC status for both wine and cheese."


Cmoore says: All the classic qualities of a Loire goat's milk cheese -- lactic, grassy, slightly lemony -- with a creamy, mouth-coating consistency and pleasantly peppery finish. Between the fresh, young scent and subtly biting arugula-reminiscent finish, this is an ideal spring cheese. I bet it would be great with a plate of lightly dressed greens and a very fresh baguette.

Suggested pairings: The Loire is known for their Sauvignon Blanc as well as their goat cheeses, and not coincidentally the two make a lovely union. Other zippy, slightly minerally whites like a Bordeux Blanc or an Austrian Gruner Veltliner would also accentuate this cheese in all the right ways. If you want to go beer try something light but hoppy, like a pilsner, a gentle IPA, or a saison.

Vermont Butter & Cheese "Coupole" (Websterville, VT)

Served with brown butter apricots

They say: "Vermont Butter and Cheese Company is a cooperative supporting over 20 family farms. They pay each dairy for quality milk, providing incentives for each farmer to raise his standard of purity. The co-op has a strict standard of testing each milk, and the higher the score of an individual's milk, the more money she will receive. They have a line of fresh cheeses and butters, but are mostly known for their aged artisanal goat cheeses, modeled after the famous Loire Valley chevres. Bijou is their take on the classic French Crottin de Chavignol, and Coupole is made with the same recipe as Bijou. It is then drained into a larger mold, that of a miniature dome. They sprinkle it with a small amount of vegetable ash. Coupole is fully mature at 45 days."

Cmoore says: Dense, lactic, and chalky, with an overall mild, slightly sweet flavor profile and pleasant mouth-coating texture. Goat cheese seem more appealing and apropos in the summer, perhaps because the dense chalkiness pairs so nicely with the crisp, cold beverages I crave in the summer heat. I love that VBC is a co-op, and I love that this cheese is vegetarian: I think it would be particularly delicious with some honey and green apples.

Suggested pairings: Crisply acidic whites, like Sauvignon Blanc or Vernaccia; Light, effervescent beers like Belgian wit beer, a mildly hoppy Saison/Farmhouse ale, or even a nice Hefeweizen.

Tuxford & Tebbutt Stilton (Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire, England)

Served with cajeta pear puree

They say: "The only cheese in England to be protected by legislation. It is judged for its creaminess and extent of blue-green veins. Stilton is known for its dense, fudgy qualities. Tuxford & Tebbutt are one of only seven Stilton producers, named for the original owners: Mr. Texford the Stilton man and Mr. Tebbutt the pork pie man."

Cmoore says: Drink a pot of ale, eat a scoop of Stilton, every day, you will make 'old bones'." Nineteenth-century saying, Wymondham. Like all classic Stiltons, the T & T version is salty, salty, salty, with a dense, fudgy texture. There are only six (or is it seven?) creameries in England authorized to make this popular moldy delicacy, and it is traditionally paired with Port wine, in part due to the embargo treaty that once existed between England and Portugal.

Suggested Pairings: Vintage Port, Porter, Stout, Barleywine

Cashel Blue

Served with chocolate fig spread

They say: "Cashel Blue is the creation of Jane and Louis Grubb, a husband and wife team. Grubb family ancestors were Anabaptists who fled English religious persecution to become butter makers in Ireland. Cashel Blue was developed in 1984, and it is made entirely by hand from whole un-homogenized cow's milk. They wrap the cheese in raw Irish linen when it sets to drain. The cheese is Ireland's premier artisan cheese. A cashel was an enclosure for cows in the Middle Ages."

Cmoore says: Tasting notes: "Barnyardy --> like a stable!" But any fellow blue-cheese-lovers will agree that this is in the best possible way. The texture is creamy and smooth, with a minimal smattering of mold. In this case, the bitterness of the chocolate-fig spread pairs nicely with the saltiness of the cheese. Similarly, a strong, possibly slightly bitter beverage would make an excellent match. The Cashel Blue is made with a vegetarian rennet.

Suggested Pairings: Madeira, Tawny Port, Porter, Stout

Mary Quicke's Double Gloucester (Gloucester, England)

Served with cranberry mustard

They say: "Gloucester cheeses were at one time made only with the milk from Gloucester cows, which are now almost extinct. There are two types of Gloucester cheese: Single and Double. The main difference is that Single Gloucester is made with skimmed milk combined with a small amount of while milk. Double Gloucester is made from only whole milk. Both types have a natural rind and a hard texture, but Single Gloucester is more crumbly, lighter in texture, and lower in fat. Double Gloucester is allowed to age for longer periods that Single, and it has a stronger and more savoury flavour. It is also slightly firmer. Double Gloucester is colored with annatto, but was originally colored with carrot juice. A popular saying was: 'the rosier the colour, the richer the flavour.' Double Gloucester is also used annually in a dangerous sport: Cooper Hill's Cheese-Rolling and Wake, in which the 60 lb wheels are pushed down a steep incline and feisty young lads attempt to catch them."

Cmoore says: That's gloss-ter, for those of you who, like me, would have written "savory flavor". This cheese, well, tastes like...dirt. In a good way! My first impression was "carrots", but I quickly realized it was more the flavor of carrots freshly pulled from the ground, and covered with a nice dusting of earth. So it's also accurate to say the Double Gloucester is grassy, earthy, nutty, and slightly bitter. And dirty. And vegetarian! (Those statements are not related). It's a cooked, pressed cheese, with a firm, slightly granular texture. And, like most English cheeses, it's excellent with mustard and beer!

Suggested Pairings: Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Weissbier, IPA, Pilsner, [Beer!]

Pata de Cabra (Aragon, Spain)

Served with membrillo mustard

They say: "Pata Cabra means the foot of the goat." [Yep. That's all I got.]

Cmoore says: A washed-rind goat cheese from Spain with a surprisingly mild flavor profile. The firm paste was sweating slightly when I tried it, and my primary impression was a lactic sweetness with a hint of tang on the finish. I think it would be nice with a fruity (perhaps Spanish) beverage.

Suggested Pairings: Rioja, Riesling, Belgian wheat beer, Deus

Brescianella Stagionata (Lombardy, Italy)

Served with maple candied pine nuts

They say: "The name refers to the region of Lombardy in which it is made (Brescia) and to the maturation period (stagionata = aged). The cheese may become pungent surprisingly quick: its range goes from "elegantly earthy" to "strong and stinky" in a few short weeks."

Cmoore says: The most impressive aspect of this cheese, for me, was the way the uber-soft, smooth texture contrasted with the crunchy, sweet pine nuts. The nose is earthy, with a relatively simple flavor profile highlighting salty and lactic notes. I'm sure it will ripen into an even softer, runnier consistency and more pungent palate; until then, I'll be content to tag it one of the more 'elegant' cheeses on the list.

Suggested Pairings: Alsatian white, zinfandel, IPA, Abbaye-style ale, Belgian wheat beer

Brebisrousse D'Argental (Lyon, France)

Served with truffled mushroom pate

They say: "...Despite the brine washing, Brebisrousse is more creamy and lactic than pungent, with a delicate sweetness. It will ooze satisfyingly across the cheese board. 'Brebis' is French for sheep and Rousse refers to the color of the cheese."

Cmoore says: My notes on the tasting sheet read: "Fun Rind! Buttery! Yum! Salty! Yum!" (verbatim). A washed-rind cheese made of sheep's milk is an oddity, particularly featuring the bright orange rind casing the Brebisrousse (they add a bit of coloring). The buttery, salty pungency doesn't quite hit the mark of our "stinky" cheeses, and the smooth, luscious paste earns Brebisrousse a spot under the, well, "luscious" category.

Suggested Pairings: Gewurtztraminer, Dubbel, Tripel, Baltic Porter

Brunet (Piedmont, Italy)

Served with porcini honeycomb

They say: "Brunet is one of the many fresh Piedmontese cheeses that are so delicate, they have to be transported in cupcake holders. The goat that makes the milk for Brunet is actually a brunette; the label shows her sporting a long, luxurious coat of brown fur and fine stiletto hooves. Even Italian goats know how to dress! Brunet cheese looks like a flattened out, wrinkly Brie. It has a supple coating of mold with a dense, almost flaky paste and a runny, creamy texture towards the rind. It ages for about a month. At this stage, it is tangy, salty, lactic, and acidic yet not overpoweringly goaty."

Cmoore says: Ahhh, the Brunet. At points it vies with Truffle Tremor for the spot of cmoore's favorite cheese. The small, soft disk of fermented goat's milk bears the brilliant white coat characteristic of bloomy rind cheese. Right now it is ripe (read: runny), creamy, salty, and generally delicious. The porcini honeycomb we serve as an accompaniment is, to bring back a moderately antiquated expression, simply to die for: savory, slightly earthy porcini oil drizzled over a runny honeycomb. Divine, and lovely with a crisp sparkling or white wine to cut through the rich paste.

Suggested Pairings: Rose, Cava, Rose Cava, Pinot Gris, Frambozenbier, Lambic

Cypress Grove "Truffle Tremor" (Humbolt County, CA)

Served with local honey

They say: "Cypress Grove is well-known for their American original Humboldt Fog, a bloomy-rind goat's milk cheese with a line of vegetable ash running through it. Truffle Tremor is Cypress Grove's newest cheese, with the same velvety texture and fluffy white rind as Humboldt Fog. It stands out with the addition of fresh black truffles, whose earthiness contrasts nicely with the lemony tang of the goat's milk."

Cmoore says: Well, 'they' said it pretty well. Truffle Tremor was on our autumn cheese list as well, and it was then (as it is now) my favorite selection on the menu. Soft, oozy, and delicious, the paste is tangy and creamy with flecks of savory black truffle infusing an earthy flavor. The slightly sticky, smoothly sweet honey provides a lovely accompaniment.

Suggested Pairings: Cotes du Rhone, Cahors, Cava, Golden ale, Tripel, Saison

Vermont Butter & Cheese "Bijou" (Websterville, VT)

Served with chamomile cranberries

They say: "Vermont Butter and Cheese Company have created their own line of French style goat cheeses, including the popular Bonne Bouche, Coupole, and Bijou. Bijou is modeled after Crottin de Chavignol, whose name means "horse dropping," while "bijou" is the much more appealing "jewel."

Cmoore says: This dense little crottin features a mild, nutty flavor contrasted with a peppery burst from the natural rind. The gummy consistency may soften as the crottin ripens. Bijou is made with pasteurized goat's milk and a vegetarian rennet, and thus quite amenable to lactose-intolerant vegetarian preferences!

Suggested pairings: Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Saison